Again this month we continue to take a brief tour of History of Jewelry, entering the 18th century which corresponds to the Neoclassical period. In it we will discover the new materials used by the artisans of the time, such as the great influence that is adopted from the Renaissance and also from other previous periods.
The Jewel in the Neoclassical
In the 18th century, more popular jewelery (what today we call costume jewelery) was made with inferior quality materials , by introducing new industrial production techniques. Along with the diamond and precious stones tiaras, rings and naturalist design brooches, a Neoclassical, Gothic, Renaissance and Egyptian style jewelery was made. In addition to gold and semi-precious stones, alloys, vitreous pastes (to imitate gems), steel, iron and techniques such as stamping and mechanical carving were used.
Porcelain enameled floral themes are still used in the 18th century. The taste is refined with the colored stone, they are enriched with sapphires, rubies, amethysts, garnets, topaz, citrines, etc. In addition to diamonds and emeralds, these stones are combined with silver for color effects.
A trade takes place throughout Europe thanks to the great designers, Peruzzi, Cerini, Pauwels, Duflos, they set a pattern in European fashion and their royal houses. They impose a taste for air-mounted settings of large stones, they bet on the contrast of the stones through their carvings.
Meanwhile, Spanish jewelry influenced by European fashion, forks in two very different paths, one follows the new trend that Europe breathes and another is encased in traditional jewelry. Although, traditional jewels suffer a slight push enhanced by the new fashion.
In Spain a great variety of pieces are made combining different materials, for example, earrings are made by mixing gold filigree with fine stones, bracelets with rock crystal and brass or glasses combined with gold.
For men, jewelry is smaller than for women, however, buttons are made to decorate clothing, pins, ornaments for hats, belts, solid chains, stamps, etc.